Patzcuaro and Janitzio: Essential Indian highland towns
Jonathan Roeder, The News Mexico - 3/8/2002
The town of Pátzcuaro has earned an almost mythic status among tourists, and for good reason: time seems to have been preserved for centuries there. Pátzcuaro is about an hour-and-a-half from Michoacan's state capital of Morelia, and it has a vastly different environment from the capital's stately, egalitarian air. Upon arriving in this colonial mountain town of about 80,000, the first thing a visitor notices is a delightful chaos that floods the senses:
Purépacha Indians crowd around the central plaza selling lacquerware, woodwork and regional delicacies such as white fish and sopa Tarasca (tomato-based broth with cream, chili and tortillas), all the while shouting out what it is they sell. Almost all of the colonial buildings are painted red and white, giving the town an eye-pleasing uniformity.
Wander through the streets and one finds charming old Spanish cathedrals that time forgot, halfway crumbling relics of the town's mestizo past that retain their charm despite disrepair. For shopping, the Casa de Once Patios (House of 11 Courtyards), is the place to go. It's an old hacienda with courtyards, passageways and bright lavender jacaranda flowers, and each of its rooms is filled with artesans selling regional wares. Copperware, straw goods, guitars and exquisitely inlayed lacquerware are the specialties, along with textiles and ceramics.
Pátzcuaro and the surrounding towns have a well-established history of artesenry. In 1536, Spanish judge and clergyman Vasco de Quiroga arrived to what was then and still is a regional hub for the various indigenous communities in the area. Quiroga attempted to establish heaven on earth in the vision of Sir Thomas Moore's Utopia, and based on the amount of respect Quiroga still enjoys, did a fair job. Pátzcuaro and the surrounding communities of Tzintzuntzan, Tzentzénguaro, Puacuaro and others established specialized cooperatives, with each town producing specific products. Quiroga encouraged education and agriculture to reduce Indian dependence on Spanish landowners.
To see a mural of the region's colorful history, including Quiroga's valiant attempt at utopia, visit the Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra, located at the north end of the plaza with the same name. An old church converted into a library, it now boasts a beautiful mural that covers the entire back wall. Isla Janitzio
One of the real adventures in Pátzcuaro is to be had on the lake that bears the same name. Lake Pátzcuaro has several small islands, the largest of which is called Janitzio. From any of Pátzcuaro's central plazas, hop on a microbus with the sign Lago (lake) in the window. For a couple of pesos, this will take you right to the lakeshore. Buy your ticket (30 pesos) at the booth near the docks, and you'll be directed to one of the many brightly colored launches waiting to depart for the island. The trip to the lake can be wonderful: the air is fresh (and breezy, bring a sweater) and it affords a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains and towns. Feel free to reprimand any of your fellow passengers who throw soda bottles, candy wrappers or other refuse into the lake. Often the fisherman of Pátzcuaro are on the lake to display their centuries-old fishing techniques with their distinctive butterfly nets. For a preview of what this looks like, look on the back of any 50-peso note.
Janitzio itself soon comes into view: the steep island slopes are covered by the village, and standing triumphantly at the pinnacle of the isle is a gargantuan statue with his fist clenched in defiance. Despite the resemblance, this is not Batman or another superhero, but the Mexican independence hero José María Morelos y Pavón, for whom the capital of Michoacán is named (Morelia). The atmosphere on the island is definitely festive, with colored steamers draping over the steep alley that leads to the top of the hill. Vendors hawk their wares; one specialty is charanda - a regional alcoholic drink made from sugarcane that is not for the faint of stomach.
The ascent to the top can be tiring, but it's worth it. For about 10 pesos, one can climb to the top of the statue too. A staircase spirals up the inside of the statue. Along the interior walls, the life of Morelos is depicted in murals. Although the steep stairway can become creepily congested and distract one's attention, it is a good Mexican history lesson. At the top, one can peer through peepholes in the giant Morelos' raised fist, giving a spectacular view of the island, lake and surroundings.
After descending, treat yourself to one of the many restaurants clinging to the slopes. A meal of locally caught whitefish and cold cerveza while basking in the fresh breeze on an open balcony is incredibly rewarding after the climb. Be sure to wander on side streets during the descent back to the docks. The cathedral is especially interesting; amidst a riot of colors and decorations, locals kneel praying to statues of saints covered in dollar bills. Giving dollar bills to saints brings good fortune in Janitzio. Then you can catch the boat back to the lakeshore.
Pátzcuaro and Janitzio make a perfect day-trip from Morelia, as well as a great weekend trip from Mexico City. Pátzcuaro is famous for its traditional Day of the Dead celebrations, held on Nov. 1-2, but the town fills to capacity, so reservations need to be made well in advance. Semana Santa, or Holy Week, gets pretty busy as well, but the crucifixion procession shouldn't be missed.
TheNewsMexico.com